1. Educate yourself beforehand. Just like you would not jump right into buying a car, you cannot just jump right in to buying a board and hopping on the nearest wave. You must know ahead of time what kind of board you are looking for – should you rent? Should you buy? Longboard or shortboard? Once you have a board, you need to find the right beach for your skill level. Paddling into a wave that’s too big for you or riding a shortboard “just to look cool” can get you into serious trouble at some breaks. On the other hand, not only can it be dangerous, but not knowing what you’re doing can be plain miserable if you’re never successful with the wave.
2. Work WITH Mother Nature, not against her. Check out the weather conditions – which direction is the wind blowing? What’s the tide schedule? When is the bet tide time for this specific beach? When is the next swell due in and from what direction compared to this beach? Who cares if it’s sunny or rainy, you can surf as long as it’s not lightening…BUT if you overlook these sport specific weather patterns, you can miss all the good surf that goes along with it!
3. Look before you jump. Just like anything else, with practice, you will gain “the eye.” Just like a defensive specialist in volleyball can predict a hitter’s next move, a surfer learns to read his opponent as well – the wave. Is the wave a point, beach, or reef break? When will it break? Left or right? Are there obstacles, such as rock or other surfers, that I need to be aware of in the water? How far apart are sets? Which waves in the set look the best (or worst)? It is important to know these things, the more you watch and participate, the faster you learn the things to watch for. Simply sitting and watching a wave can help you get to know it better.
4. Take calculated risks. I’ve said this one before. But think about it – here comes a wave. It’s a little big, but you’re right in position. Do you go for it, or do you chicken out? There are only 3 outcomes: You take it and it’s the best ride of your life, you take it and you totally get crushed, or you let it pass you by. Just like in life, you can succeed, you can fail, or you can let life pass you by.
5. But know your limits. Mother Nature can be your partner in crime, or she can show you who’s boss. If you are caught in something you KNOW you can’t handle, then don’t do it. For example, don’t paddle out with a longboard in 10ft waves that are eating locals alive. It’s all about RESPECTING the wave and not getting cocky. Trust me, if you forget this lesson, Mother Nature will gladly remind you to be humble.
6. Get back up in the saddle when you fail. You are going to fall, and sometimes you are gonna just absolutely EAT IT. But you know, the more you wipeout, the less scary it becomes. You realize that even if you get pushed down, you’ll likely pop back up. Even if the wave breaks on your head, once it happens enough times, it’s old news, and you learn how to handle it mentally and physically. Even the best pro surfers wipeout, so even when you “fail”, it’s all part of the process of getting better, just like in life.
7. Be decisive. I can be quite indecisive sometimes, and when you’re surfing, this is not a good quality. You must decide your next move quicker than the waves are coming in. Of course there are all kinds of timing decisions – when to paddle, when to duck dive or go over the wave, when to catch the wave, and when to take the wave head on and leave it for someone else. You can’t float between taking a wave or not taking a wave – you have to decide quickly to go for it or let it pass.
8. Respect the pecking order. There is a certain etiquette to surfing, and it is important to know that every wave does not belong to you. You must wait your turn (and remember to be patient – see #10) as you must respect those who have been waiting longer than you. Locals and other surfers in better position for the wave usually have priority as well. You must work your way up that totem pole and earn the respect of others in the lineup.
9. Physical and mental endurance. Obviously, surfing is a great workout, and your arms will feel like lead from time to time. This part only gets easier. Mentally, you must be sharp and aware of your surrounding (see numbers 1, 2, and 3), and when you are getting pounded by a set as you’re trying to paddle back out, you have to stick to your guns. Keep paddling. Don’t give up. The set will be over soon, and if you give up now, you’ll just get caught in a worse position for the next set. Just. Keep. Going. Science has proven that, no, your arms will in fact not fall off.
10. Patience. Patience. Patience. And Persistence. Sometimes, sets may be few and far between one day, or Mother Nature may just not be cooperating at all for weeks on end. Be patient, and waves will come. If you are patient, and that does not work, simply be persistent.
So in closing……….Is it next weekend yet?!?! TAKE ME BACK TO THE WAVEEEEESSSS!! :)
