Tuesday, October 29, 2013

It's the Small Things

I know it’s been a while since I’ve updated, but this past week has been pretty rough….I’m missing home pretty bad (loved ones, sane people, The Weather Channel, a dryer, chocolate), and my work-life has just been turned upside down.

Before I get into that though, I want to thank each and every person who has supported me throughout this journey. I am surprised by the overflowing words of excitement and encouragement that continue to come in, and it’s nice to know that there are people watching out for you, even from far away. Whenever I am having a tough day or am lacking motivation, I read and reread the notes, cards, emails, and messages that you send me that are filled with “You can do it!” and “Enjoy the ride!” and “We believe in you!” And because you believe in me, I can pick myself up and overcome whatever is keeping me down. Seriously, those small words mean the world to me here. Thank you.

Allllllrighty then. Let me tell you about the last week from hell.

I’ll preface this starting two weeks ago when we had “winter” break, which is really “It’s-the-middle-of-rainy-season-and-we-all-need-to-get-outta-here” break.  Have I mentioned that all the people who can afford to shut down their business for the month escape and leave the peninsula for all of October?? Yeah. That’s what people do to cope with rainy season here – they avoid it. So this was our chance to have a week off school to “avoid” rainy season (which actually hasn’t been that rainy this year…).

My plan was to catch a series of buses to Dominical, a tiny, hippie-surf town on the Pacific coast just north of the Osa Peninsula. Of all my travels in this country last time I came, I had remembered Dominical to be my favorite. I had loved the hostel (and their famous fish tacos which no longer exist ugh) and surfing at Dominicalito down the road had been perfect. While there, I was going to look for a surfboard to buy. Then, I’d catch a bus to Escazu to visit old friends and students at CDS and stay with my beloved, sweet Oky again. I hadn’t been able to contact her since I left, but I always missed her like she was family.

In order for me to recap my adventures of the week and not write an entire novel, I will list the highlights (well, exciting points since some were less than ideal) instead.
  1.   Day 1 in Dominical was spent looking for a board. Unfortunately, no one had anything they wanted to sell that was in my price range and size requirements because it was low season. All signs pointed to Jaco at this point. Do you remember how much I just loooveeee Jaco?!?! Exactly, I despise it. But I would have to go if I wanted a board….
  2. Day 2, I made new friends. Michelle was another solo, female traveler like me staying at the hostel, looking to surf and chill. She was even my age, and although she was originally from Dubai (with parents from Zimbabwe), she was attempting to get a visa to work in NYC. I also made friends with Zoltan (or “Z”), a 27-yr old American expat with longgggg, blond, hippie hair, clear blue eyes, and a passion to start a hippie commune on the nearby jungle mountaintop that he recently purchased. Later, I would meet Rob, a surfer from New Zealand who owned a car and was roadtripping the entire Pacific Coast, starting in British Columbia, with his friends. He was here waiting on his friends to catch up from Nicaragua, and in the meantime, he was our adventure-seeking means of transportation.
  3. A seashell-hunting stroll on the beach with Michelle ended in a woman yelling Spanish curse words at me and trying to attack me. I had asked a man on the beach a question, and she must have been his suspicious girlfriend watching from afar. Thankfully, the man was able to hold her back while I escaped. I tell you the people here are suuupppeerrrr jealous!!! Once reunited with Michelle down the beach (she was doing her yoga while I continued my walk), we noticed a very inappropriately naked man sitting on the rock watching her……….GET ME OUTTA HERE.
  4. On the other hand, Michelle and I enjoyed 2 days of surfing in Dominicalito. We would walk there early in the morning (about 40 minute walk), surf, soak up the sun (I had successfully escaped the rainy season!), and then we’d hitchhike back. One day, we even met another solo female traveler at the hostel, and we single girls ruled the wave. I forgot the other girl’s name, but she was from Slovenia and currently living in the Canary Islands. I was enjoying meeting people from all over!
  5. After surfing on Day 3, Michelle, Zoltan, Rob, and I hoped in the car, headed to check on Z’s car in the shop at Matapalo (no, not the same one I’ve been visiting…). That turned into “Tourguide Z” taking us on an adventure to Playa Matapalo where I found handfuls of tiny sand dollars, a dip in a jungle river to cool off, lunch at a “truck stop,” and a tour of Z’s mountaintop property. The drive up required 4-wheel driving skills that Rob had thankfully acquired on his journeys, and once at the top, we enjoyed an incredible view of the Pacific Coast (it was so clear you could even see my Osa Peninsula!) and a hike through untouched, primary rainforest. WHAT A DAY!
    The view


    Primary Rainforest Hike

    Me and Z

    Z's "Farmhouse"

  6. The next day, rain found us and the waves were too choppy, so instead, we ventured to Playa Ventanas, named so aptly for its window-like caves that lead to the ocean. At low tide, you can swim in the waves that are rolling in through the caves!!! We were the ONLY ones on the beach, so we enjoyed the tranquility of a beach fit for a deserted, tropical island. Z even scavenged coconut, sugar cane, and bananas for us to enjoy. Around sunset, we headed to the beach next door to explore the gigantic bat cave that was also accessible during low tide. It was almost dark, but we could hear the bats chirping, and we knew they’d fly out in search of dinner any second – we didn’t stay long!
    The "Ventanas"



    Rob's first sugarcane

    Bat cave

  7. Day 4 and it was time to go, sadly. I was enjoying my personalized adventure tour group!!! But, I was in search of a board, so Jaco it was.  I hate that place, but thankfully third time was the charm. I was on guard all day, on a mission to get in and out asap, but I found a board!!! And I NICE one at that! I spent a little more than planned, but I know I can get that much back out of it in the end. Even my local surfer friends in Matapalo (the real one) commented on how nice of a board it is. HOORAY! I had escaped Jaco unscathed and with a surfboard that was exactly what I was looking for.

  8. FINALLY I arrived in Escazu! The mountains were beautiful, and it was just as I had left it (minus the addition of a wonderful taco restaurant by Oky’s house and newly paved sidewalks). And Oky was also just like I left her. She looked just the same, and was as warm, loving, and welcoming as she always has been. My heart was bursting with joy seeing her again. I missed my Tica mom! Her house was just as beautiful too, not to mention I had missed her food more than I had thought. YUMMMMM. The intern she had staying with her was even nice, so I was more than content to be back.

  9. School the next day (Day 5) was chaos, in the best way. I didn’t realize how small and sparsely supplied my classroom here was until I walked into a classroom of 16 third graders!!! I had forgotten what it was like to have a full classroom with same-aged kids! I was happy to see Mrs. Calderon and many of my other friends who were still there, and it was nice to find out that they remembered me too! I even saw some things I had made that Mrs. Calderon still used in her classroom! Ahhhh, I was in my happy place. Tomorrow was even UN Day at school, so there was a buzz of excitement as students practiced dances and parades and planned their outfits. Tomorrow would be fun
  10. And it was! The kids came in traditional dress from the country that they’re originally from, and there was a Parade of Nations that the whole school participated in. THEN, THERE WAS FOOD. International plates from all over the world filled the outdoor hallways by the classrooms, and I certainly enjoyed samplings from a huge variety of countries! I saw several of my old students (who are now in 5th grade), and they were soooo surprised I was there!! But they remembered me, and one of the parents asked me to come back and teach a younger sister in 4th grade next year….Hm…..we’ll see!


  11. Day 7 brought a Saturday with Robert (the intern living at Oky’s house) at the good ole Costa Rica Country Club, also just as I had left it. I even remembered how to get there. I was in HEAVEN…Pretty people, poolside service, sun, and endless hot water in the waterfall showers. The free shampoo and conditioner was even organic, biodegradable, aromatherapy stuff that supported the Corcovado rainforests conservation projects back on the Osa. AND, I was able to blow dry and straighten my hair, which I hadn’t done in about 3 months. OH MAN, I was a pampered princess for the day, and it was AWESOME. The lunch that followed was equally as awesome - fish, mashed potatoes, and vegetables all artfully cooked with NO “complete season” and arranged perfectly on my plate, poolside. After the Country Club, Robert and I ventured to the Multiplaza (the huge mall, remember?). We window shopped (and I spent too much money on so-called “necessary supplies” that I couldn’t get on the Osa) and then we went to a movie. OMG I have never been so happily overwhelmed in my life. Like Robert said – too much excitement for me for one day! Haha the movie, Elysium, was a thriller, so it really was quite a bit of excitement! And I was happy.

  12. Sunday, I was very sad to leave Oky. She had spoiled me rotten – cooked my favorite foods for me (she remembered!!!), the maid did ALL of my laundry, and I was loved and taken care of. J I want to visit her again when I pass back through San Jose on my way home, and Robert is supposed to come down and hike Corcovado National Park with me at the end of November!


Back in Puerto Jimenez, I rested for what would be the most insane school week yet. I was so relaxed, and poor me had no idea it was all about to come crashing down to an unfriendly, halting stop. I was in for it, and I didn’t even know it.

Monday I show up and I was sent straight to the principal’s office. Oh no, what had I done?!?! Whew, turns out nothing….Today was Megan’s first day gone on maternity leave, which we were prepared for, BUT Amanda’s dad tragically died over break, so she moved home to be with her family and mourn the unexpected loss. WHAT. I was suddenly the only “veteran” left, and I wasn’t even that much of a veteran!!!! Holy cow. Who was gonna fill in?! At first, they wanted to combine my little girls with Amanda's PreK/Kinder class and give them to Dominique, Megan’s maternity sub. Then I’d move to 1st/2nd grade and give them exams that I was not prepared for. Uh…..this was not a good idea – too much change for too many students and teachers…the whole school would be turned upside down!!! Instead, we decided I’d stay with my regular classes, Dominique would take over Amanda’s instead of Megan’s class since there were more students, and Marco, along with our brand new volunteer Alana (she literally arrived THAT day), would handle the three students in Megan’s class.  THEN, I after this news, I walked into my little girls classroom with 5 students!!! I had left with only 2 or 3 – one was back from a broken leg, my two regulars were there, and I had not one but TWO, entirely new students! Ohhhhhh man. What a handful. Turns out one new one understand ZERO English, and the other has been so isolated in the jungle that while he understands English, he is nonverbal. This day was interesting, to say the least...

The rest of the week consisted of us all getting on our feet. Poor Alana walked into this mess, and thankfully I think she’ll be able to handle it, but I was trying to help her adjust as best I could. Marco also notified us around Wednesday that he was planning to move back home on Saturday, so Alana would now have the class by herself. She was coming down here expecting to volunteer and HELP, but instead was given her very own classroom that was chaos in and of itself. In all this disarray, at home, Alana decided to stay at a hostel, and Marco moved out on Thursday to a hostel, so I was suddenly and abruptly left to myself in the house! Oh and the printer/copier broke at school and was not going to be fixed until next week. Cool. Exams were next week (which is now this week), and that was just another kink in all this mess.

WOW what a week. Do you see now why I didn’t have a second to update this blog??! I was staying until 5pm almost every night trying to get things together for exams, organizing my life, etc. and I am proud to say I even got all of our math games for the rest of the year made and laminated!! I had picked up several ideas from Mrs. Calderon (again…haha), so I was antsy to get those ideas settled and in action.

Last Friday, I escaped to the jungles of my beloved Matapalo as usual. I surfed Backwash Saturday to try out my new board, and IT IS PERFECT. I got totally rocked a few times, but I was also successful a few times – this tells me that I can grow with this board and really improve but not get frustrated. I can do it, but it’s a nice challenge. SO happy with my purchase, especially because (like I said earlier), my local surfer friends even commented on how nice of a board and brand it was. Sweet.

Back to PJ Saturday night though, since I had to made my visa-renewing border run on Sunday. Many people had their doubts that I could do it in one day – you are technically supposed to stay out of the country for 48-72 hours to be able to get another 90 days in Costa Rica, and they have become more and more strict on your necessary paperwork to be able to enter Panama. Plus, transportation had to line up perfectly, and in this country, that’s sometimes a challenge.

Understatement. I missed the first lancha (water taxi) to Golfito at 6am. Turns out, (of course) I knew a guy at the dock leading tours, and he knew of a guy that could take me at 7:30. This meant that I missed my 7:45 bus in Golfito to the border at Paso Canoas, but luckily buses left every hour. BUT the bus I wanted next left 10 minutes early as I finished breakfast at a soda in Golfito. Shoot. At the bus stop waiting for the NEXT bus that would come in an hour, a collectivo taxi pulled up, shouting “Paso Canoas!” Whoa that’s where I needed to go!!! Plus, he only charged $8 for an hour ride. Cool. That was super lucky. I was suddenly back on track, time-wise… Until I got to the Panamanian border without a proper bank statement – they sent me to an internet cafĂ© to print one out, and when I returned, the line was at a standstill. An hour and 15 minute standstill to be exact. Would I make it?! I was planning to burn time in Panama so I didn’t look suspicious, but after receiving my Panamanian entry stamp, I walked around the building to get water and some chicken before standing the Panama exit line. Once stamped there, I walked back to Costa Rica, and without a hitch, got stamped back into Costa Rica after leaving only 3 hours earlier. BOOM. I would now be able to catch the bus back to Golfito at 12:45 – the last one that would get me there in time for the LAST lancha back to PJ. I was one lucky girl. I was on the bus, and I made the last lancha no problem. BOOYEAH, I did it. Thank goodness.


Now, this week has been actually nice, so far. I know it’s only Tuesday, but here’s to hoping for a smoother week that ends in a wonderful weekend in the jungle. Alana should be along for the ride this time, and hopefully the waves will not fail us. I’ve cleaned out my house too – I mean CLEANED OUT. All things from volunteers are donated, laundry done, kitchen cleaned and organized, and my house even smells like autumn. Maybe now, I can make it my home so that I struggle less with homesickness and loneliness. For now though, keep the kind words comin’ and I’ll keep chuggin’ along. 

Monday, October 7, 2013

You Can't Take Money With You....

This weekend, I learned that $70 was well worth my sanity. In a heartbeat, I'd spend it again. No second thoughts, no doubts, I'd fork it over fast than you can even say "colones."

Here's the back story. I have been going to Matapalo almost every weekend to escape - I just can't say no to the peacefulness that it brings. I'm learning to heal there, and I always come back centered and ready to tackle the work week ahead! Plus, I am a beach addict, so it's like a double whammy.

However, this weekend, I was planning to stay in town. After all, I'd been going to Matapalo every weekend, and I needed to stay home for once and save money for my trip next week. We have the whole week off school, so I am going on what I like to call a mini surf trip to Dominical (I want to buy my first board here), and then I will be going to Escazu to visit all my lovely friends and family (Oky) from my last stay in Costa Rica. I'm planning to visit the school and see my kids too!!! Needless to say, this will cost money, especially if I spring for a board (which would be my graduation present to myself, and it would also save me money in the long run).

BUT....To no avail. I went out dancing Friday night only to be reminded that the men here are pretty much all pigs. I love dancing with them - it's fun, fast paced, and challenging since I'm still learning the steps. Plus, it's exercise, which I am dying to get these days. (This whole volleyball withdrawl thing is killin' me over here.) But then, oh, turns out all the men harass me even though the are all taken. Good.

As a result, I woke up Saturday morning ready to get out of this place! I slept late since I stayed out late, so I missed the first collectivo at 6am. I argued with myself for all of about 15 minutes about whether I should go or not. IT WAS SUNNY (!!!) and I had had a pretty rough week, due to a mixture of circumstances, and after last night, I knew I couldn't take another day without a break. I knew that if I didn't go, I'd only have another terrible week, and it wasn't worth it. It just. wasn't. worth it. Forget this. I threw together my things. Like that. You know why, BECAUSE I CAN. Because I have no one I have to report to, no one to tell me no, no one I have to ask first, no one I have to take with me, no one I have to babysit. If I wanted to go on a whim, all I had to do was pack. So I did. I was so irritated the whole time, just-a cursing myself for not doing this yesterday. Packed, ready, and I even had food and water already. I was OUTIE 500, mae. I rolled up to the collectivo stop early, I admit, because I was so antsy.

FINALLY, the collectivo was leaving. I do not exaggerate when I say that I was more relaxed before we even pulled past the Palo Mango - the last real markable spot in town. By the time we hit the first  cow field (which around here is no more than 5 minutes), I knew I had made the right decision. Jessica, listen, it's only $40...You really can't take it with you, and it's worth your weekly sanity refreshment.

OH and was I right. It was soooooo worth it. I got to my little Kapu, beach side. I was hoping to surf this afternoon, but it just wasn't in the cards. I had checked Pan Dulce and Backwash on the walk down, and the tides were too high. Plus, I hadn't been able to land a board yet, and Encanta la Vida was too expensive to rent from for just an hour or two. When I arrived, Macho showed me to my room. Unfortunately, my platform was taken. UGH.  BUT, free upgrade to a private little house (with a lock), complete with kitchen, shower, and toilet. I was at first excited, but I quickly grew to miss my tent. This place was hot, and it felt too big and lonesome for just me. The upside was that it was closer to the beach, so the waves were super loud as I fell asleep later that night.

The weather was beautiful! Warm with a cool breeze, so I decided to take a walk. I walked up the beach path to Pan Dulce and back down to the beach I call Nextdoor (because its nextdoor to both Backwash and Pan Dulce), and the little jungle beach trail was relaxing.
Playa "Nextdoor"

 I took a break, watched some surfers, then headed to The Crack. The Crack is the southern most beach, and it was actually a clear evening, so I was hoping to see as much of a sunset as I could. Turns out I couldn't see past the point, so the sun set over the land, but it was still gorgeous!! I meditated, reminisced, centered, and healed here for a while, until it started getting dark, and then I headed to Playa Matapalo to finish watching the sky go to sleep.
The Crack at Sunset

Playa Matapalo at Sunset

Playa Matapalo at Sunset

SO nice. I hadn't been able to watch a full sunset here yet, only partial ones. Next, I'll wait for a clear morning to watch the sunrise over the ocean. Ahhh.

The next day brought lots of energy! I was wide awake at my usual time, about 7am, and ready to surf! I had been trying to borrow a board so I wouldn't have to rent one for $20 at Encanta la Vida, but I had no luck. Again, I argued with myself about spending the money, so I came to a compromise with myself that I would walk down and check the waves first. Backwash - nice, but am I good enough?....Pan Dulce - I should wait. Back to Backwash it is. Ah, crap, the waves were nice. Tide was good. Only 3 surfers on the wave. Not too big, but green enough. Oh forget it, the $20 was worth my sanity too. I even reasoned with myself that if I was serious about buying a board, I wanted to test out what I was looking at getting - a tall 7' or short 8' board, and I heard Encanta had a decent selection. 

I walked up and there it was. A 7'8ish Mini-Mal that embodied exactly what I had been looking for. Sweet. Why yes, I will test drive this for my sanity. 

Again, I sprint-walked as fast as I could back to Backwash, board under my arm. I even picked up another gringo and his son who were looking for a good spot to longboard and boogie board. They were nice to talk to, and started calling me Bama and asking where a bama girl learns to surf. Good question....ha. I did have to correct them on their battle cry (at first they said those awful words that are too offensive to inscribe here). 

THE WAVES WERE SO PRETTY. I was mesmerized and like a bat out of hell all at once. I didn't watch long, since I had watched earlier, and I headed out after the set. The water was bright blue and perfectly cool. The sun was shining too, hot on my back. I paddled....and paddled...and paddled. Finally, out of breath, I was past the break. And I'll admit, the waves were a liiittttllleee bigger than they had looked onshore, of course, probably 5ft-7ft waves (or in surf terms, "shoulder to overhead"). But I had duck-dived my way out, after all, so I knew I was strong enough of a swimmer to handle it. I was excited, and THEN I caught my first wave. It was fast, and I even could feel a little drop-in...something I had not previously gotten to experience due to my usually smaller wave size. AND I SURFED THE WAVE all the way until it died!!! WOOOOOO go me. At this point, I think "totally stoked" would be a good term to use for how I felt.
A calm Backwash



The next set brought another, shorter ride for me, and a TOUGH paddle back out. The set coming in while I paddled was easily overhead, and I got caught right in it. Wrong place, wrong time, kinda thing. BUT after probably 9 hours of paddling (just kidding, it only felt that long), I made it back out past the break. I rest a set or so since I could barely lift my arms. The next sets were huge, and I remember having one "Uh oh" moment as I narrowly escaped getting crushed by a 7footer. I made it though, and was ready to catch my next wave.

Soon, another overhead set came in. We're talking 6-7ft waves here. Like, if I'm standing up, the waves would be over my head (hence the name, "overhead" waves...) I went for it, and HOLY COW, they weren't kidding when they said this was a fast wave. I caught it AND I STOOD UP!! I did it!! I was surfing waves as big as I was. SO PUMPED!!! I probably only stayed up for about 5 seconds, but STILL. Take that, POW, I did it.

And then I fell. And I fell hard. The wave closed out and pushed me deep, disorienting me for a few seconds. It was odd....I got totally rocked, but after watching surfing and growing up around waves (even small ones), it was exactly what I expected. Yep, this is what I always guessed it felt like to get it handed to me, so I didn't panic. I drank the whole ocean, but I didn't panic, and I was up again, cursing and ready to get out of the water. I wasn't particularly mad at anything, except maybe that I had fallen and missed the ride. I rested there for a second, before deciding that I was just kidding about the getting out part. I was too excited, plus, I remembered that $20 I hadn't wanted to spend. I WILL get my money's worth.

This time the paddle out was much easier. The waves were turning off. It was literally like Mother Nature had one more good one in her and then she flipped the switch. I just chilled on my board, and Drew (Nela's boyfriend) gave me some pointers on getting your bearings on where the waves usually break in relation to the land. We also saw a sea turtle swimming about 10 feet from us! So cool!! I lounged on my board, got too much sun on my back, and enjoyed the cool water. Surely, Mother Nature had one last ride for me.

Yep, She did. One more good one. It was probably a shoulder-high, and I rode it nice and easy all the way in. Thanks, Mother Nature for a redeemingly smooth ride after you asserted your dominance on the last one.

Once ashore, I threw out my towel and attempted to tan my front to match my probably red back. A (very sketchy) fishing (cocaine) boat had moored itself close to shore, and (ironically) all of its crew were hand paddling into shore, crammed in a tiny rowboat. Ha. Drew and I had been joking about the illegitimacy of the boat's appearance before, and their illegal immigrant rowboat didn't help the situation. However, they turned out to be quite friendly. Drew went up to talk to them since we had agreed we wanted some fish, and they paddled out to their boat on our surfboards while I waited on the beach. Before long, they came back with two, whole, very pretty Mahi Mahi that they had caught earlier. And lucky us, they were even going to clean them for us and GIVE them to us. Yes, GIVE. For free. They had caught so many, and they still had 5 days on the boat, so they said they had plenty. CHICKAYEAH. A great day of surf and some free Mahi Mahi to top it all off?!?! I'll take it.

We hung out with our "pirate" friends while they cleaned the fish, and one of them scaled a coconut tree "como un mono" so we could enjoy some fresh pipas, or simply, coconuts with the side cut off so you can drink the water. Later, they also shared some strange tree fruits with us that I had had before, but still can't remember the name.

Once the Mahi was cleaned, we were off. We stashed the fish back at Drew's house in the cooler, and after dropping some supplies off back with our pirate friends (they had wanted Coca Cola, but all we had was rum...), I headed to Pan Dulce. Maybe I'd get lucky, and keep this surf day going.

No such luck. It was as flat as the Gulf of Mexico. Oh well, I had gotten more than I expected out of Backwash, and I was proud of myself for handling it so well. It had been the perfect storm for a surfer like me....I wouldn't consider myself intermediate yet, but I'm strong in the water and a fast learner when it comes to sports. I had a friend helping me learn the wave, I had a good board, the wave wasn't crowded so I could learn surf etiquette with less pressure, it was sunny, the waves were challenging but not overwhelming, and there was even a longer board on the wave than me! (That's good because short boarder can get frustrated with long boarders, so I wasn't the "loser" of the bunch hahaha.) SUCH  a perfect day, and I think it's time for me to admit that I have the early symptoms of addiction. Blast if I'm ever land locked again.

Needless to say, I came back to Jimenez happy as a clam. I was riled up from the surf, and I made fresh Mahi Mahi fish tacos that were THA BOMB. A little crunchy feeling from the sun, but exercised, centered, and satisfied, I knew that I had never spent $70 better in my life.